If you're lucky enough to be a Bay Area bride, Gumps is presenting a very special San Francisco Bridal Event, Sunday Feb. 7, 11AM-1PM. Each year Gumps gathers the Bay Area's finest wedding vendors and presents a magnificent tabletop display for brides in the area. Sip sparkling wine and enjoy a continental brunch by Taste Catering as you stroll among the gorgeous tables. Tickets are $30.00. Click here for more information

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The above hat is a total throwback to 1960s head chic--something Jean Shrimpton would have worn. The sprig of Baby's Breath below says, 'Are you ready for Spring . . .?'

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Ever wonder what goes on behind the scenes of a gown shoot? Here are a few of my new creations shot Friday by the incredibly talented Saira Rizwan of S1 Studio here in the SF Bay Area. We took seven gowns, two great stylists with hair and makeup and one inventive florist to make all this magic happen.

Hairstylist, Dana Faulkner working on Shauna's hair between gown shots

My favorite, the 'Ciara' gown. Handrolled dupioni roses on a fitted sheath offers a real 1940s look we played to the hilt. Can't wait to see all the images on this shoot. Stay with me a couple more weeks when I'll be posting images.

Enjoy these lovely, free-spirited images by photographer Elizabeth Luna taken at a trash the dress session at Lake Arrowhead, California (yes it snows in SoCal). Elizabeth and a few others planned this amazing shoot that turned out to be so much more than they ever expected . . .

Do you recall last summer all those weddings featuring brides and their maids carrying parasols? I certainly noticed, especially after seeing that great flick, The Painted Veil with Naomi Watts and Edward Norton. Set in 1920s China against a magnificent landscape of the Yangtze River and picturesque mountains, Watts sports quite a wardrobe of these chic little props with some of the most intricate detailing I've ever seen. In 1920 however, the parasol was hardly a new concept. Going further back than Marie Antoinette, the parasol was considered a necessity in every woman's wardrobe to ward off the sun. By the mid-1800s when they hit their zenith in the Western World, it was at least known then sun prematurely ages skin. A century later we have scientific proof exposure not only ages but can cause melanoma. So our grandmothers had the right idea flaunting beautiful accessories. And so evolved the parasol; at it's most chic it can be an art form full of intricate treatments and applications just like hats, veils, purses and shoes.



Recently, I had the pleasure of meeting Priscilla Troy of Priscilla's Parasols here in the San Francisco Bay Area. When constructed in fabric, not paper, parasols are actually made to last and make beautiful keepsakes and gifts to pass on. When Priscilla brought her entire collection in, I was amazed at the range of her designs. The collection has not only more functional products out of linen and cotton but deacquisitioned pieces from The Brooklyn Museum of Art which consisted of silk and lace gems dating back to the Civil War. Raised in the South, Priscilla moved West and pursued a career as a graphic designer and advertising art director. Today, she engages in conceptual textiles and became interested in “Shade Art” by reintroducing the parasol as both a protective devise and a fashion accessory. She feels, "One does not just carry a parasol, but wears it as a lifestyle choice. "

Photos courtesy of Priscilla's Parasols

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Contemplating a more romantic but simple look perchance? Check out the drop. Yes, the drop veil is exactly that: actually dropped onto the head in a single layer of tulle or lace, sometimes bordered with lace or ribbon. In the above image it looks like chiffon or organza. Generally, more ornamental gowns look best with simple veils, like one layer of tulle whereas all over lace veils or ones edged with wide borders require a simple gown with little adornment. Your dress might have some exquisite back details you want to show off. If this is the case select a try a layer of tulle like that shown in the images here— in a dropped style that doesn’t fall in creases and folds across your back. Tulle is the best fabric for this; it’s transparent enough without being so opaque to fog detail. The exquisite hair ornamentation in this photos is visible and even adds a little mystery with the addition of a drop veil . . .

BHG

Better Homes and Gardens, known for gorgeous garden and flower features has the most imaginative bouquets I've seen in a long time . From country charm to downright exotic, check out these magnificent combos I found on their site. Finding an inspiration point and blending that idea with your dress is just the beginning of working one or a few colors into an overall theme. The dress above is paired up with a bouquet of Celadon hydrangea clusters and hypericum berries combined with soft yellow orchids, chrysanthemums, and peach-pink roses.

BHG

Loops of rich green grass encircle this creamy clutch of flowers. Pure white roses are nestled alongside yellow-tint orchids and roses with pale green petals. Soothing green foliage and berries unite the bunch.

BHG

The evening gowned or beach bride will love this tropical bouquet. To add an island or beach vibe to your wedding, use bold colors like these orange tulips surrounded by lisianthus.

BHG

Intricate and colorful bouquets work in tandem with a minimalist dress with few details like the one pictured above . . .This bouquet is a twist of modern elegance. Jade roses and white calla lilies are surrounded by banana leaves to give this bouquet a unique look. To bring out your wedding colors, wrap your bouquet in ribbon and add special touches like this dragonfly to accessorize the bouquet


Believe me, this is just the beginning of all the fabulous flower chic. To find more bouquet inspiration you can hop over to BHG's Editor's Picks . 

Maybe you've narrowed down your search--decided you like the evening gown look but not absolutely, positively, 100 per cent sure an A-line is out of the question. Next you get up from the computer and go out shopping. Hitting every salon within a twenty-mile radius, you try on gowns in every shade of white imaginable. Still, nothing out there's really grabbed you. Then . . . a week or two later this concoction finally comes together in your head--the neckline you found in Weddings; the sleeve on the dress you tried on in the salon combined with the sweep train you spotted last week in the Film Noir. Once all this gets put together you'll have a custom designed gown, something one-of-a-kind like no other in the world.

The inspiration boards above and below were put together to illustrate some of the steps in the design of a custom gown from first sketch, fabric and laces used as well as finished product.

BrideMail@Bridechic.com
I know the exact dress I want but can't find it online or in the stores. Luckily a friend recommended a designer she used. How is custom design different from buying in a salon?


REALITY 101: Making a gown from scratch requires more fittings than gowns ordered through a salon so you'll need to be open to the experience of watching your gown develop from the ground up. In addition, a custom designer or skilled seamstress puts many hours and a high level of craftsmanship into the creation of a custom gown. Working with fragile white fabric and delicate lace is an art form. Figure any custom gown crafted by a designer usually takes four to six months to complete from a listing of your measurements. Since the design process involved with a custom gown is more of a direct collaboration between you, you'll have more input with decisions regarding fabric, silhouette and style. Custom gowns are typically 80-90% handmade. This means machines do some work like the side seams, cross seams, etc. There are however stitches on these one-of-a-kind gowns only expert handwork can touch in order to produce that exquisite finish.



THE DESIGN PROCESS

Eventually a gown is in the making. After a final sketch is approved, a written estimate follows, complete with with fabric swatches and your measurements are taken. For every gown order a paper pattern is made. Think of the paper pattern as a blueprint, a record of all your dimensions on it. From this, most designers (some dressmakers too) work out a muslin. The muslin is an actual cotton mock-up and 'living pattern' of your gown's design, fitted exactly to your body. Think of your muslin as the foundation--the groundwork upon which your dress will be built. This is where most of the fine tuning will be done to that perfect fit before one cut or stitch goes into the true gown fabric(s).

SOME ADVISE

After your muslin fittings (there may be two of them), the muslin is unstitched and laid out on the actual fabric and the gown is made up. Since most of the fitting has been worked out on the muslin, second and third fittings usually follow up with finishing touches to the gown like hemline, closures, remaining design details, etc. Be prepared for more than three fittings though. A gown made from the ground up is a work in progress and each step along the way is painstakingly taken, checked and rechecked. Keep in mind you want your gown delivered at least a month before your wedding. Yes, you'll need to synchronize your calendars on this one. You want to be able to relax and deal with all those other last minute details involved with your wedding, not still fussing around over hemlines.

Check in for Part II of Custom Designed on Monday . . .

Yes, this wedding is recent--Jan 10. San Ysidro is right on the Mexican border which explains the sunny, warm feel of these images by the very talented Riverside, California photographer, Elizabeth Luna. Says Elizabeth about this wedding, "Chris and Sarah met in Sweden while she was in college there. They had a long distance relationship for several years until last Saturday when they tied the knot! I am so grateful to begin the new year documenting this moment. The love they have for each other is quite obvious! Gosh I LOVE my JOB! Chris and Sarah thank you for being you! Thanks for having such awesome personalities and being so loving and open. I felt like part of the family.

Thank you to the following people for making all of this possible. . . . "

Florist Sassa Harte
Make up & Hair LunaBella
Cake Berolina Bakery

Venue San Ysidro Ranch Wine Cellar
Photographer Elizabeth Luna

About Elizabeth Luna

Elizabeth specializes in wedding and engagement photography. Her life and passion are wrapped up in photography. She has a knack for capturing who her clients really
are, their personality, laughter and free spirit through the magic of her lens . . .

Yes, veils are still trendy and there are more styles out there than ever, but before you make the decision to wear one, consider your options. Today, some brides are bypassing the veil, going for special touches like hats, fresh flowers or jewels in their hair. The idea is, if you’d rather wear a feathered toque down the aisle and it works with your gown, go for it.

FLORALS in your hair. They compliment simple evening gown silhouettes with a tropical feel, A-lines and ball gowns with a touch of the romantic. There are three kinds of florals: Fresh, artificial and hand-rolled fabric flowers. All are beautiful choices. Fresh can be ordered through your florist possibly echoing some of those in your bouquet. Artificial flowers are typically silk, some so well made they look like they were just picked out of the garden. Hand-rolled flowers are made out of fabric like dupioni, organza or shantung, sometimes in the same fabric as your gown. These have a real haute couture look and are usually attached to a barrette or spongy wire-wrap. You’ll need the help of a hairdresser incorporating fresh flowers into your hair. Artificial ones sometimes come with an attached comb—sometimes not. If not, you’ll need help anchoring these in. Some hairstylists will even weave poufs of netting through the flowers, creating a real high-fashion look.

HEADBAND -- typically attached to a gathered pouf veil, you can wear the headband individually without the veiling. Headband brides have that fresh, Estee Lauder look. Bands range in style from simple, narrow satin ones to those covered in pearls and crystals. A great option for hair worn down, not quite shoulder length like a bob.

TIARA -- Just the tiara — no veil. This is a classic look. Most tiaras are made out of crystal and rhinestone. Best when the tiara sits upon a well-coiffed up-do.

HATS & FASCINATORS are the choice of some of the world’s chicest brides. Once you start trying them on, you’ll see how each works with the shape of your face, your body type and gown. A petite bride can wear a picture hat as long as it’s not massive and is in proportion with the rest of her. The evening-gowned bride will need something with enough width to create symmetry with her gown. Adornments can be feathers, flowers, ribbons, drapes and poufs of netting, to name just a few. The widest assortment can be found on Etsy. And if you don’t find exactly what you want, they’ll be able to custom make it for you.

HAIR JEWELERY -- These can range from Mother of Pearl hairpins to crystal adorned hair-sticks and clips. You can wear one or many sprinkled though a beautifully coiffed head. Top notch hair styling is a must to wear these properly.

Novia D'Art

The sheath is a favorite of brides who take pride in working out and strutting their stuff. I'm not referring to the evening gown or any variation with a flared skirt but the sheath Audrey made famous--that snug fitting, long columnar silhouette in a heavier fabric like Duchesse satin or peau. Defined, the classic sheath looks like the images above and below--having waistline and skirt features that are usually as snug up top as on bottom. This silhouette can work for the bride who wants a stylish, simple presence as well as one who wants to make a more powerful statement with her veil or accents of laces and a train added. On the right bride this silhouette is elegant and proffers the look of class and chic combined. Adding skirt to a sheath by way of a detachable train is traditional for bridal as well as evening wear reminiscent of 1950s.

Vera Wang

Giambatista Valli

Priscilla of Boston
The shorter sheath is also an option for the less formal wedding or even rehearsal dinner, bachleorette party or reception. The Priscilla of Boston dress above is short with a longer train, great for brides who want to change out their look from ceremony to reception . . . .

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Giambattista Valli

Amy-Jo Tatum

Amy-Jo Tatum

Transcendant Bird

Yes this dress is both new and used. Made from an existing linen beach dress, the designer added numerous yards of tulle gathered into layers with added streamers. Check out the vintage doilies all over the bodice and skirt. This is one off-the-charts example of upcycling, a trend and practice some ethical designers are devoting their collections to exclusively.
Upcycling is a trendy term for reusing garments or fabrics that already exist and spinning them up into something new and hopefully as original as the gown above. Last season a client brought in an exquisite antique tablecloth and asked me to fashion her wedding gown out of it. I was awestruck by the cloth. It was an allover and rare Cluny Lace. Ten years ago this would have been considered by most as ‘chintzing it’ on your wedding day whereas these days it is not only applauded but even considered a sentimental gesture—in my client’s case—the tablecloth was lovingly left to her by her great-grandmother.

Here are a couple of last year's adventures in upcycling by Yours Truly. Both were cut off a generous piece of Swiss cotton eyelet I've had for years. The gown above was dyed in tea and the one below I kept its original off white. Both have belts made out of eyelet trim--also upcycled.

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 If I asked you what lace you most associate with bridal wear you'd most likely say, Alencon. This lace is easy to recognize: there's cording around the motifs creating a kind of three dimensional quality. Numero uno as a traditional bridal favorite, Alencon can be used as an allover lace or clipped apart and used as trim on hemlines, necks, veils, or pieced together to create larger motifs. Originally called point d'Alençon, this needle lace originated in Alençon, France. Manufacturing of this lace began in the 16th century with a local industry created by a man named Jean-Baptiste Colbert, during the reign of Louis XIV. He got going what was known as a Royal Lace Workshop to create something close to the Venetian style. Once this evolved it became a unique style associated with the town.

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The above version of Alencon looks ecclesiastical, a bit like something you'd find on a cleric.

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SMP Galleries

Touches of Alencon grace the edges of a veil above. Below a delicate version of Alencon forms some of the embellishment of a bodice and midriff.

SMP Galleries

Audrey's Closet Vintage

Yo Adrian! Embellished with Alencon lace, this gown is a total throwback to the 70s. When Adrian tied the knot in Rocky II (1979) with the fictional catch played by Sly Stallone, her gown by Michelle Piccone looked something like this. To get a closer view of the original sketch, click on the image below. Considered the ultimate dream gown by brides of the funk era, take into mind we're talking a world pre-Diana . . .
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A modern version of Alencon lace application on a gown with a cut out back by Yolanda

Special thanks to Stuff in the Basement for having the presence of fantastic mind to scan and post Adrian's wedding gown picture. We need more archivists scanning wedding pics from many years past to keep some of these gowns that made history from going into oblivion . . .